Trip to the Pilbara 1981

Back-tracking to a trip we did in 1981 to visit our friends Terri and Martin who worked in the Pilbara town of Tom Price when mining was just starting up.

I wanted to record these photos. I still remember being taken to the stunning location of the Harding River near Cossack and being grief-stricken to find out it was about to be totally flooded and turned into a giant dam to provide water for the mining towns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In our ignorance, we wandered around Whitnoom, including inspecting an old mine. The kids grabbed a lump of blue asbestos for their rock collection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tom Price was a very small town and Dampier was little more than a beach.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A picnic at Dampier with Terry and Martin.

 

Back to Wilgia Mia

In April 1985 we take off on a trip around Australia that will take the best part of a year. We start off around Mt Magnet and Cue in what is called the break-away country. We are camped out near Walga rock where there are Aboriginal sites with paintings.

 

One site has a childlike painting of an old sailing ship superimposed on the aboriginal designs. it has been dated about 100 years old by the London Museum. Thought by some to be done by the survivor of a shipwreck or an Afghan. There is also a story said to be told by the Aboriginal people, of a blue-eyed, fair-haired girl who drew the picture and was killed because she had entered a sacred site. (And as I write this I realise that we also were trespassing on a sacred site)

The kids collect rocks- some nice crystalline quartz. They have started correspondence lessons which we pick up and drop off at post offices in various towns.

 

 

 

17 April 1985

We are back camping at Wilgia Mia and  had a look around Big Bell today. Once again, I am amazed at the size. the goldmine was started in the 1930’s but the once-substantial township is a ghost town surrounded by what can only be called a man-made obscenity.

 

 

The earth has been raped and left – nothing but miles and miles of white noxious-looking slag. a collapsed hole, so dangerous that humans and animals have to be protected all around by a high fence. Expensive equipment dumped and left to rot in the elements

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The children remember Wilgia Mia and delight in showing David through the ochre mine although it scared them last time they were here.Being with their dad must make them feel safer.

 

We heated some water and set up a bush shower. It was heaven after walking around Walga rock.

 

 

 

 

 

18th April 1985

the day starts early with school work. We just do a few hours and get it out of the way. I figure that what they are learning from the trip is more valuable than all the social studies etc. however they can’t fall behind with the basics.

 

The Cue Masonic Hall

 

We’re off to Poona which we all read about in our book of rocks and minerals. It is supposed to be rich with gems which is true if the fences are anything to go by. Our rock collecting expedition was intimidated by signs like AGA KHAN MINE PTY LTD – KEEP OUT – TRESSPASSERS PROSECUTED. There is also large and expensive infrastructure evident like huge runways. When we stopped for lunch under a shady tree we could hardly stay still long enough to eat. Everywhere were rocks of different varieties and colours – quartz, agates and what may be jasper but could be red iron ore.

 

We became lost on the way back to camp but found some great little caves. This country makes me ponder on the lives of the first people.

 

Back at camp we once again had fun with the shower and must have looked a sight with not a stich on except ugg boots to keep our feet from being covered in ochre.

Red Dirt and Bungarras

April1985

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The children haven’t mentioned games tonight. We have been playing Rummy and Scrabble etc since we started camping. Tonight, they are carried away by writing and drawing. Robert has virtually written a book. Makes my teacher/artist heart glow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Wilgia Mia to Mt Augustus, the world’s biggest rock (2 1/2 times bigger than Uluru). We had a couple of attempts of climbing it but it is almost 4000ft high, very rugged and no distinct tracks. We didn’t reach the top and were in danger of becoming lost.

 

Camped at Mt Augustus station – we were the only campers and were made very welcome. Cattle Pool on the station is a beautiful waterhole overhung by huge ghost gums, lots of water weed. It is very pretty. We took the canoe. We attempted fishing but only caught tiny fish. A huge bungarra came to take our bate and then stayed to pose for us for over an hour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We dropped the caravan at Barradale and drove over to Ningaloo for the night. David caught 6 crayfish and some cuttlefish. We filled the water containers from the station tank where the emus, kangaroos and wild goats come to drink.

The weather glorious, no other people so once again we all forgot about clothes. The next day was raining so we spent the day in the car waiting for the tide to go down so that we could drive back to Barradale along the beach.

 

Off to Port Hedland to spend a week with my sister Lauraine and her partner Wayne. They have a Goldsworthy Mining Company apartment right on the beach at Finucane Island. we spend much of the week fishing and learning to windsurf and the rest of the time eating and drinking.

 

We went into town to see a musical version of ‘The sentimental Bloke’. We were met with sherries in the lobby, a bar was open during the play with people sitting watching, drinking jugs of beer and smoking all the way through. A chicken supper was served dring the interval. The play was dreadful but needless to say nobody noticed.

SPAWNED


 

I’m scared witless. It’s a week after the full moon in November. The coral should spawn tonight.

            When Tom suggested we go night-diving the idea appalled me. I’m anxious enough during the day, looking over my shoulder for sharks. Tom assures me tropical sharks are too well fed to care about humans. The ones I freaked out about when we snorkelled around the island were harmless reef sharks, he said. They didn’t look harmless to me.

            ‘Don’t you dare swim away and leave me.’ I glare at Tom as he hands me the strobe-light.

            Tom morphs into a fish when he enters the water. He forgets everything, including me. I swear he even forgets to breathe. He stays under so long.

            We walk along the shore and I exclaim in delight to see tiny bursts of light swirling around my feet.

            ‘Look!’ I shout to Tom’s back as he trudges ahead of me as usual.

            ‘Yeah,’ he says without turning. ‘Phosphorescence.’ And I find myself wondering where the old Tom went. Since he started the new company, the only thing that makes his face light up, is money.  This holiday hasn’t changed anything. I’d hoped to talk to him again about starting a family but I got the same spiel about how irresponsible it is to add to the population of the planet. I tried not to let my resentment spoil things but I’m the one who plans our life around caring for the environment. When I broached the subject a year ago his first reaction was to ask if I knew the expense involved in raising a child. My face would have told him what I thought of that question.

            I juggle my mask and snorkel onto my head, and pull on my fins. I look out over the black sea and before I can change my mind, sink into the blood-warm water. My strobe won’t turn on. Panic. But then fear vanishes as I find the switch and the colours of the coral come to life in the dark water. A nudibranch dances in her red and black flamenco frock, scorpion fish hover over mushroom-coral ignoring the multitude of tiny iridescent fish darting around them. A clown fish bobs in and out of his anemone and the puffer fish are busy building nests.

            I melt into this world, hanging, floating, legs trailing, arms outstretched.

            The light of my strobe shines on a sight that makes my heart leap. Parrot fish that during the day, can be seen munching and crunching on the coral, excreting it out in sandy streams, now sleep encased in bubbles. They seem unaware of my presence. I put my hand below one, wondering at its vulnerability. I look around for Tom.

            ‘Look!’ I squeak through my snorkel.

            He nods and tries to take my hand but up ahead I see a mass of tiny pink globules rising in a burst of new life. I kick my fins and swim into the light.

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The Madness of Purple

THE MADNESS OF PURPLE 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pliny proclaimed: pardon the mad desire for purple    

rank it with gold in the realms of Gods  

Sail south to Mediterranean middens

abandoned by Phoenicians recording

legions of Tyrian shellfish sacrificed

for one purple hat.

 

Justinian’s purple love coloured

Theodora’s royal robes

and chapel walls in Ravenna

In Constantinople night fell

secret purple wandered lost

 

Salute the rising sun

take the road

winding left of history’s page

find a pea plant in India pulsating

with molecules of Imperial Purpura

Turn left again seek the indigo road

to Egyptian mummies in violet edged shrouds

bound by empirical yearning

purple remains to capture life’s glory

 

The Hebrew God bade Moses regale

the fringes of prayer shawls with sacred

secret tekhelet – the colour of kings

Now wandering lost in purple desert

fringes remain forever white.

 

The mordant links

the circle turns

to fabric mills of Paris London Glasgow

purple partners with blood milk metal

purple resists while painters printers chemists

conspire and feckless fashion faddishly calls

to festoon ladies in lavender frocks

 

Sail south again where guano from Peru

paves the winding road

coal tar and aniline cobalt and ultramarine

dance over fabric

Wend west to home

Behold the Jacaranda

The madness of purple lives on.