4. Heady Days

Better to die on your feet than to live forever on your knees.

Inscription on the Spanish Civil War Memorial, Customs House, Strathclyde.

During the first part of the 20th century, the world was in political and economic turmoil. Between the birth of my mother in 1918 and the onset of the Second World War in 1938 was a particularly dark period of history. The devastation of the Great War was still raw in people’s minds, but once again Europe seemed to teeter between peace and war, fascism and communism, democracy and dictatorship, hope and despair. Political unrest was particularly evident in Glasgow where conditions for working class people were amongst the worst in Europe. The heavy industry of Glasgow was hit hard by the depression and during this time a quarter of the workforce was out of a job. The population of Scotland fell as people like my grandfather emigrated to places like Canada, America and Australia to find work.

My grandmother Christina had taken part in the rent strike of 1915 which stopped the landlords from profiteering during the Great War. The success of this strike was held up as a shining example of the power of working-class solidarity for years to come. Ours has always been a very politically aware and opinionated family, and my mother’s formative years were spent in politically tumultuous times. She and her young socialist friends did such things as go from door to door asking for donations of food for the Spanish people caught up in the civil war. The reception they got was often abusive from the mainly conservative Scots who labelled them communists.

Mum’s older brother Peter like many of his peers was determined to be part of the fight against fascism. He found an illegal passage to Spain aboard what was known as a potato boat. These boats smuggled food and young men to the war in Spain. When Peter failed to arrive home in the evening my grandfather smelled a rat and eventually tracked down his son. Threatening the captain with prosecution he hauled the unthankful lad home. Perhaps Peter never forgave his father for this interference in his life, but William would have seen his son for the starry-eyed idealist that he was, and not have wanted for Peter the horrors that he himself had experienced in the Indian Uprising, or the Siege of Ladysmith in the Boer War. Many idealistic young men and women from all over the world travelled to Spain to join the Loyalists fighting against the right-wing forces of General Franco.  These volunteers were known as the International Brigade.  During this war, over 700,000 people, mainly Spanish civilians were killed. Fifty-three young people from Glasgow were among the dead. Franco supported by troops from Germany and Italy was eventually successful and Spain became a Fascist country.                                                      

William Wilson    

 As I noted in the previous blog, Peter was to go on to become the secretary to the fiery young socialist James Maxton. James Maxton was one of the leading figures of the Independent Labour Party in Glasgow and elected to parliament in 1922 where he was highly regarded, even by the people with opposing views including Churchill. Like many of his colleagues in the ILP, Maxton was a pacifist and had campaigned against Britain’s involvement in the First World War and against the introduction of conscription. Maxton was imprisoned in 1916 for delivering pro-strike speeches at a demonstration to oppose the Munitions Act which was passed during this time to prevent workers, disenchanted with the war, from leaving their jobs. Maxton served in the parliament until his death in 1946 and devoted much of his political life to alleviating poverty within the city of Glasgow.

3. Antipodean Shock

Arrival in Australia, all felts and tweeds with the temperature one hundred and eleven degrees Fahrenheit, I wasn’t exactly daunted, just a bit knocked up. The open space I was nominated to was crowded with the biggest trees imaginable. They were beautiful, but I would gladly have exchanged them for the dirty smoky city I had so recently left.

                                                                       The words of my mother, Mary McCaughan (nee Wilson)                                       

We arrived in Fremantle on board the P&O Steam Ship Mooltan in  1949 as part of the first wave of post-war migration. Bands played and locals turned out to welcome us. We sweltered in our best clothes worn for our first day in our new country. They were more suited to January in Scotland than the searing summer heat of Western Australia. People took one look at me, all pockmarks and skinny limbs, and thrust chocolate bars at me. Mum’s youngest sister Helen came up from Manjimup to greet us. Helen, having been without the comfort of any family for over a year, took one look at my mother and dissolved into a flood of tears. She was pregnant and badly suffering both morning and homesickness.  

The next part of the story is hazy to me. My parents were obviously left to their own devices and I remember being told that Uncle Doug had been selected to attend a dairy-farming training course in Harvey. Helen was joining him there. From Fremantle we caught the train to Bunbury being held up on the way by a tree which had fallen across the line. After that we somehow made our own way to the farm.

Meanwhile, a well-meaning woman from a group called Friends to Migrants greeted us and invited us to her home for lunch. Not wanting to offend, Mum and Dad with me in tow, followed the woman’s directions. A short walk through Fremantle to find the bus stop had my parents gasping with thirst so they entered the front bar of a hotel to buy a lemonade. My mother was deeply affronted when told that, as a woman, she was not allowed in the bar. Discrimination of this kind was unheard of in Scotland, and unease set in about what to expect in this new country. 

We caught a bus and tramped up a long hot hill to be greeted by a house full of noisy, greyhound dogs and a greasy roast dinner served on a table covered with newspaper. With the heat and the dogs, Mum said her appetite vanished and she already felt homesick as she thought of her mother’s table spread with a gleaming white tablecloth.

My parents had left behind a materially deprived society, but it was, by all accounts intellectually stimulating and vibrant, as well as rich in intellectual and cultural experiences. My parents met in the highlands where they both enjoyed hiking, exploring the peaks and glens with their friends.

Although much of Glasgow had not recovered from the exploitation and impoverishment caused by the industrial revolution, it was a city of art and architecture and libraries. It was also a city alive with political debate. My parents read Marx and other writers who proposed equality of class, race and gender and belonged to the Young Socialists Society.  Mum’s brother, Peter worked as the secretary for James Maxton, the Scottish Parliamentarian. A socialist and a pacifist, Maxton was a gifted orator who  Churchill labelled as “the greatest parliamentarian of his day”.

 

        Hiking in the Highlands

Theatre and opera were usually affordable, even to the working class. My father had a fine tenor voice and was passionate about music and opera. He remembered hearing Richard Tauber, whose shows were always fully booked. Tauber, a socialist believed music should be for all people and John felt privileged to be among the working-class crowd when the singer came out into the street after the performance and sang. Another visitor to Glasgow was Paul Robson, who my father loved, not just for his rich bass voice, but because he too was a socialist. Robson was from America where even as a celebrity he was treated as a different sort of animal because of his colour. When invited to sing in Lenin’s Russia he was impressed and delighted to find himself, for the first time in his life, on an equal footing with other men. When Mary and John arrived in Australia they had come from a society that was vital and vibrant with political and cultural ideals

Mary Wilson and John McCaughan Oct 4th, 1944

Mary and John were married during the war in 1944. My mother’s wedding dress was a testament to her creativity with a sewing machine. It was nearly the end of the long, bleak war-years, with everything in short supply. Some of my mother’s friends were Jewish and she said they always seemed to know how to find their way around the shortages. They were able to find a precious zipper and the material for the wedding dress. They then took the leftover

 material and made the hat. Mum sewed a whole trousseau of underwear from a new silk parachute that fell off the back of a truck. Wedding cakes in these times were often made of white cardboard decorated with flowers. They looked good in the photo, but the actual cake underneath was only a tiny cube. Mum and Dad had a real wedding cake made by my father’s uncle who was a baker. Added to this rare treat was whiskey that came via the officer’s mess as well as from a friend whose father owned a pub.     

 

2. Into the Unknown

The unknown always seems sublime.

Crossing the equator on board the SS Mooltan on the 14th January 1949 I was initiated as a Daughter of Neptune and given the freedom of the seas. All kippers, haddocks and other denizens of the deep were charged not to molest me in any way should I fall overboard.

 

Coping with an active two year old on board a rolling ship was not Mary’s idea of fun. The pokey little cabins were in the bowels of the ship and men were segregated from women. No sooner would she would reach the cabin after struggling down steep staircases when I would cry: ‘Mam need the lavvy’, and she had to trudge back to the bathrooms, which were at the other end of the ship. Unlike my father, Mary did not suffer from seasickness. An added blessing on the ship was the food. There were none of the dreary rations that they had been used to since even before the war. Food was good and plentiful, probably for the first time in my parent’s lives.

On Board the Mooltan 1949

The ship stopped at Aden. In the crowd and confusion of the dusty souks, I became lost. Both my parents were panic-stricken until I was eventually found safe and sound, surrounded by Arabs exclaiming over my blindingly, blonde hair, which apparently signified good luck.

During the voyage, I contracted chicken pox. This became a mixed blessing for my parents who were moved to the sick bay to be near me. The sickbay facilities were more comfortable with a toilet and bathroom, and the couple was together. The next stop was Colombo. We were confined to the ship because of my chicken pox. Another couple from Glasgow were also staying on board.

‘What’s the use?’ they said. ‘We’ve no’ got a penny between us.’

It was agreed they should look after me while John and Mary escaped for a day, and in return were paid enough to allow them to also see a little of Colombo.

.

I often wonder how my parents felt on this journey, which took six long weeks to go half way around the world. On the voyage Mary had plenty of time to dream about what life would be like in Australia. Did she imagine the farm they were going to would be like those in Scotland with rich green pastures and undulating hills? It had been her idea to migrate. During the Second World War, Mum’s youngest sister, Helen had met an airman of the Royal Australian Airforce. Doug was handsome in his uniform with his low sexy voice and his dark skin. Helen begged and borrowed clothes from her friends including one who had several fur coats, in order to look glamorous for this young airman. It was not long until the casual Australian expected to visit her home. Mary remembers Helen rushing into their two-roomed tenement house (a room and a kitchen as opposed to a single end). She picked up dishes, tablecloth and all, and dumped them into the scullery, frantically trying to make the mean little dwelling more presentable. Doug took her to the officer’s mess and fed her small black and white images of wide-open spaces and beautiful beaches that made her hunger for distant shores.

Aunty Helen

Helen was only eighteen when she shocked her family by migrating to Australia. She landed in Fremantle and was quickly employed by a law firm as a compositor. Mary believed she did not intend to marry, that she wanted to see the world, that in her letters home she hid the fact that she was lonely and homesick and instead talked about Perth in glowing terms. Doug travelled to Perth from South Australia to court Helen, a wide-eyed and beautiful young woman. She supposedly now succumbed to his charms but I suspected this had already happened back in Scotland. And thus sealed her fate as the hard-working wife of a battling dairy farmer in Manjimup, a small timber town, two hundred miles (almost 300 kms) south of Perth. It was a world apart from Glasgow in every way.

Doug had come from a wheat and sheep farm in South Australia. Besides wanting to be independent, I’m not sure what made him start dairy farming in Manjimup, but the heavily timbered land would have been cheap. They bought a farm that had belonged to the Ralstons, pioneers of the district. There was an old house as well as many sheds and a barn. Years of backbreaking work would be needed to make it into a viable dairy farm, but the couple was young and full of energy.

And how did John feel as he and Mary journeyed towards a farm twelve thousand miles from their city home? I know my father was happy in Scotland. His needs were never great. He had friends that were dear to him, and it was a short ferry ride to his beloved Ireland. And he had his music. At a Ceilidh and other gatherings, he and his accordion were popular. And when he hiked in the highlands or roamed around Ireland on his frequent bicycle trips he would have taken his mouth organ. To this day emotion wells up when I hear either of those instruments. The strength of John’s feelings for Ireland was palpable as he described its great beauty, from the green hills of Antrim in the north, with its insanely scenic coastline, to the mystical Ring o’ Kerry in the south. He talked fondly of his family in Bushmills who were carpenters and wheelwrights in the same small village for generations where they had made everything from the altar at the church to coffins and coaches. He was a gentle, quiet man who once told his best friend that what he most wanted from marriage was security. Yet here he was crossing the equator and stepping into the unknown to try to satisfy the woman he had married. John’s needs were few and simple, but there was nothing simple about Mary.

10. Manjimup Day3

This morning, sleeting rain replete with tiny hail stones greet me, suggesting I stay in bed and keep reading. I’m getting lots of reading done this trip.  Eventually, I emerge from my little capsule like a reluctant numbat and set off to explore more of the district. (more about the numbat later) Deanmill is where my father first found work when we migrated to Australia. He would ride his bicycle to and from the farm each day but it is not a place I ever visited in the past. Today it is a small historic time warp. Row upon row of tiny identical jarrah weatherboard houses still stand, mostly in good repair so I’m guessing they are still occupied. Apart from the houses, there is a large Mill Workers’ Club but nothing else. The town is deserted as I drive around. The workers must all work elsewhere. I pass what could have been the sites of timber mills but they are guarded by large gates with forbidding signs.

I am snooping around the old farmhouse again when I remember I didn’t take a photo of the houses in Deanmill. When I return, a woman is hanging out washing on her verandah. I stop to ask about the place. She is friendly but I don’t find out much. She said she didn’t know if the mill was still running and they rent the house from a Queensland mining company that owns the town, and much of the land in the vicinity. I’d like to ask more but it starts to pour and I don’t get invited onto the verandah so I scurry back to the car. Not for the first time, I get the impression that Manjimup is a district that has closed ranks against ‘Greenies’. But how could they think Iam a Greenie? I’m just a little old lady.

Next, I drive to Yanmah expecting to find a small community.  When Mrs Google announces: ‘You have arrived’, I am at a bus shelter with the sign YANMAH painted in large letters. The undulating farming country is lush and picturesque and the remnant forest especially in the valleys is spectacular. A few wildflowers, perhaps impatient for spring, are to be found but fungi is still hiding.

I spent the rest of the day in the library and adjoining art gallery where I enjoyed seeing an exhibition of works depicting the six Noongar seasons. Apart from being able to keep warm, I can look up a few books and use the internet which is not available at the caravan park.        

10. Manjimup Day2

Manjimup  Day 2

After breakfast at the Timber Park Café, I re-visit the timber museum. A large proportion of the exhibits are intent on showing the timber industry in a heroic light, celebrating the development of more and more efficient technology to fell the forest giants. There is only a passing nod to the 65 000 year old indigenous culture it displaced or the opposition from conservationists.

I still feel the tragedy how we could fell magnificent trees, many hundreds of years old to be woodchipped and sent to Japan, to be converted to paper that largely ends up in our bins. This is the same Japan that is about 70% covered in forests. Their forests are not indiscriminately felled. Their culture holds trees sacred.I know the arguments for woodchopping but they do not hold water. there had to be an alternative

After persistent, and sometimes huge protests this practice was stopped but we still have not managed to protect these forests from power and profit and I have to stop myself despairing for the future of these unique ecosystems that are disappearing bit by stealthy bit.

I left the timber museum and drove to Pemberton to the Gloucester National Park looking for an old-growth forest to explore. To my disappointment it is still recovering from a control burn. However, the towering ancient trees command reverence from their gigantic moss-covered roots to the canopies reaching for the blue eternity of the sky.  Bracken fern and Zamias sprout fresh and green but Harderbergia and Clematis hang, grey as grief in the charred understory. Oil on the blackened eucalyptus leaves that carpet the earth shines silver with dew. There was very little sign of fungi spore bodies. I saw more in Sampson Park near Fremantle last week. It may be too early for them down here.

My path meets the Bibbulmun Track which I follow over a small lichen-spotted bridge, up hills and into valleys. Here, there has been no burning. In the stillness, I imagine I hear a murmur of insects, or is it the oxygenated breath of the trees replenishing the silence?